Split ends? Here’s why they happen and 6 ways to nix them (2024)

Twisting your hair into a slicked-back bun may be your go-to style for the gym, but doing it 24/7 can weaken your hair cuticles – and that results in split ends.

It's not just fitness fans that can have issues with their ends, mind. Fraying can happen to the most diligent, serum-using, heat styling-avoiding, nourishing mask-wearing of us.

Why? Well, if your locks are longer than a pixie cut, then know that hair naturally begins to fray and split every three to four months due to everyday wear and tear. The good news is, you can scale back the extent of the damage by following some basic rules.

Scroll on for your split ends 101.

What are split ends?

Also known technically as Trichoptilosis, split ends are a sign of damaged hair. The fraying of a single strand typically begins near the end of your hair shaft, but can also start from the middle or closer to the root.

‘A split end is a sign that your hair strand is damaged and can be caused by chemical, thermal or mechanical stresses,’ says Moroccan Oil artistic director Kevin Hughes. ‘Mechanical stress is the most common, as this includes hard-to-avoid habits, such as brushing your hair or using a hairband,’ he adds.

Damaged hair can become tricky to manage and style, and in extreme cases it can break off.

What do split ends look like?

It sounds kind of obvious, doesn't it? Split ends are where the strands separate into two at the very end. However, there are various types of split ends you need to be aware of. There are 3 types of split ends...

The basic split

The most common type of split end, these look like a 'Y', with the strand splitting at the end into two pieces, and are an early warning sign of damage. Note, they're not the worse kind because the cortical cells are still held together, however, large sections are beginning to separate.

The mini split

Like the basic split, the mini is very common and an example of early split development. It is the same shape as the basic – so, a 'Y' – but this is less deep. This is another sign your ends are dehydrated and need a good drink. Time for a sealing treatment, stat.

The fork in the road

Here, a strand has pronged into three at the end. The fork in the road shows that damage has well and truly set in because it's a sign of more significant splitting. Time to call your stylist.

What are the causes split ends?

Being rough with your hair, for example, brushing it incorrectly while it’s wet or pulling out a hair tie when it’s tangled, will damage the hair shaft and lead to breakage. As will excessive blow-drying, curling or straightening.

It was true in year nine biology, and it’s true now. UV rays, chlorine and pollution also take a toll on your tresses. ‘It’s not the heat, but the exposure to UV rays that damages the disulphide bonds in your hair,’ says Neville Hair and Beauty stylist Kelly May.

‘These bonds are what gives hair its elasticity and strength, holding it together by supporting the protein structures of the hair shaft.’ Damaging them leads to dulling, dryness, colour fade and major breakage.

Can you actually fix split ends?

Technically no because you can't ever fully repair the damage that's been done in order to get back to untouched pin-like hair. However, you can temporarily mend the strands by applying a repairing product to your ends before styling or as a treatment.

Are split ends unhealthy?

'While we want to do everything we can to prevent split ends (like taking good care of our hair and making sure we have regular trims), split ends are normal and aren't necessarily a sign of unhealthy hair,' explains Hayley Young, hairstylist at Charles Worthington salons.

'Saying this, if you have a lot of split ends, this could signal that your hair isn't in its best health – and if left untreated, can cause your hair to split further, snap and look thinner.'

How can I prevent split ends?

1. Prime your hair

You want to keep your hair as moisturised as possible. 'When the hair is dry, it will become tangled, frizzy and have split ends. Be sure to use a moisturising shampoo and conditioner. I’d recommend using a conditioning hair mask and leave it on for a couple of hours'. Before drying your hair, apply glossy nectar oil for hydration and anti frizz.' says Chris Merrick, stylist at Blue Tit Salon, Crouch Hill.

2. Have regular trims

Longer-term, then it's a good idea to see your stylist regularly. ‘Book a trim with your hairdresser every six to eight weeks, and opt for a stylist who has thermal scissors in their toolkit. The heated blades help seal the cuticle so the ends are stronger,’ reveals Elena Lavagni, director of hair and beauty salon Neville.

This will prevent split ends from growing upwards and thinning your hair even more.

3. Swap your towel for a t-shirt

If you have curly or coily hair then swapping your hair towel for a t-shirt is a good shout.

'The coarse texture and dryness of bath towels are known to cause damage to the hair cuticles and worsen split ends. Instead of using a towel post-wash, remove excess moisture from your hair with a T-shirt for less harsh treatment and less friction,' says Frederic Fekkai, founder or FEKKAI hair care.

4. Invest in a silk pillowcase

Silk pillowcases with a high silk thread count are smooth to the touch unlike cotton preventing friction which causes split ends, hair breakage.

5. Switch up your diet

Split ends can also be directly related to your diet, hormones, and vitamins or minerals which is all critical for hair growth.

‘Treatment should be holistic and involve using the right products and making relevant changes to diet – such as consuming more omegas 3, 6 and 9 (found in the likes of oily fish, poultry and olive oil, respectively) – and lifestyle, which commonly involves targeting stress,’ adds trichologist Anabel Kingsley.

6. Take care of your scalp

Think of each hair as a flower and the scalp as the soil supporting it – it makes sense to feed and support it. ‘The scalp is a living tissue that contains thousands of sweat glands and sheds dead skin cells,’ explains trichologist Anabel Kingsley.

‘If you don’t cleanse and nourish it like you do your face, the connective tissue is weakened, which means the hairs it produces are weaker, too.’

Which ingredients help to build healthier hair?

When looking for products to strengthen your hair, look out for caffeine which helps blood circulation to the scalp, promoting healthy hair follicles.

Another way to strengthen your hair is through the use of supplements, as this will boost hair health from the inside out.

Weekly scalp drops will likely be prescribed to nurture the scalp environment and support the growth of new hair. Due to the nature of the hair growth cycle, the effects of stress will not be noticeable on your hair until six to 12 weeks later, so you may not always make the connection.

The best hair care products for split ends

While you can't rebuild a split end, you can reduce the look of split ends and prevent them from forming with a strong arsenal of nourishing hair products.

1/ Hair by Sam McKnight Happy Endings Nourishing Balm

This is a great finishing balm that helps seal the cuticle, reducing the appearance of flyaways and split ends.

2/ Kérastase Nutritive Nutri-Supplement Split Ends Serum

Packed with vitamins, this silky serum adds hydration to the lengths of your hair, protecting against visible split ends and excess breakage.

3/ Philip Kingsley Bond Builder Split End Remedy

Shielding healthy hair against heat, UV and pollution, this treatment aims to prevent further harm while also offering a sealing, strengthening action to help any existing split ends less noticeable.

4/ Virtue Split End Serum

Enriched with a potent blend of pea protein, hydrolysed quinoa and baobab seed oil, the intensive formula envelops each strand in rich nutrients to help protect and nourish, while also working to enhance the colour vibrancy and restore shine.

5/ Grow Gorgeous Balance Fibre-Sealing Split Ends Treatment

Designed for all hair types, this serum contains nourishing oat lipids that work to form a barrier to protect your hair from damaging and drying external factors.

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